Tuxedo Styles

Tuxedo Lapel Styles

Notch Lapels

The standard in men’s suiting today, notch lapels are found on everything from sport coats to business suits—which also means they’re considered more casual than other lapel types. They have a “notch” where the jacket collar meets the lapel. Despite being a casual lapel type, notch lapels are versatile—you’ll find them on both suit and tuxedo jackets. Just avoid wearing them at the most formal black tie events.

Shawl Collars

Shawls aren’t just for little old ladies. Shawl (collars, that is) are characterized by a modern, rounded shape, and are primarily seen on tuxedos and dinner jackets. While shawl lapels are pretty much only found on black tie-appropriate garments, some would argue that they are less formal than a peak lapel. You could also argue they have more panache. Use your judgment based on the event and your personal style.

Peak Lapels

Peak lapels are slightly wider than notch lapels, with edges that “peak” upward toward your face. Originally seen in highly formal, highly traditional garments like tailcoats, the peak lapel has since made its way into tuxedo and suit jackets alike. It’s generally viewed as more formal than the notch lapel, and, because it’s less common, more of a statement. But don’t shy away—because they point upward, peak lapels have the effect of making you look taller and slimmer. Win, win.

Double-Breasted Jackets

Double-breasted jackets have overlapping front flaps and two sets of buttons. Traditionally associated with everything from ’30s gangsters to ’80s Wall Street brokers, today’s double-breasted suits are a slimmer cut (which makes them much more flattering), and perfect for the guy who wants a bold look. While viewed as more formal than its single-breasted brother, we say wear the DB wherever you want: office, burger joint, wedding—which is why we made a double-breasted tux.

Cummerbund or Vest (or Neither?)

One of the traditional guiding principles of a formal dress code is that all the working parts of your ensemble must be covered or dressed. While the rule has become more of a guideline, we still find the rule’s offspring in formalwear: vests and cummerbunds.

Bare

If you want a more modern, effortless look, consider ditching the vest or cummerbund altogether. Going vestless is an increasingly popular, contemporary choice, and acceptable with either a tuxedo or a suit.

Cummerbund

The cummerbund was invented to cover up your waistband (and the awkward shirt bunching that tends to happen in that area). Cummerbunds are rapidly approaching “old-fashioned” status, and we won’t go out of our way to recommend you wear one. But if you must wear one, do it only with a tuxedo, and match the material of your cummerbund with the material of your lapels (sorry, hot pink cummerbunds).

Low-cut Vest

Like a cummerbund, you’ll usually only wear a low-cut vest—occasionally called a waistcoat—at black tie events. Low-cut vests are viewed as more formal and are cut lower in the front than a typical suit vest—hence the name—to show off your tuxedo shirt. Unlike the full-back vest, it is appropriate to button all buttons.